Despite all my other anxieties, as I set about the recipe--- grinding sugar, boiling it to a syrup, then clarifying it with egg white to draw off the impurities--- I tasted a sweet edge of hope. My customers often proved resistant to change, and yet this frozen delicacy promised innovation married to the familiar. After all, what could be more English than peaches and cream? I knew instinctively that it would prove more popular than Persian sherbet, and more suited to this weather than apricot tarts.
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